Collecting Seeds to Create Native Plant Spaces for Wildlife

Nov 8, 2024

The Nature Conservancy (TNC) excels at native plant restoration and ecosystem stewardship on a landscape-wide scale. By creating, extending, and conserving native habitat, they provide permanent and migratory wildlife species the spaces they need in order to thrive.

While most of us can't restore hundreds of acres at a time, we can establish native habitat, wildlife corridors, and migratory stopovers in our yards. The place to start is with native plants that feed and house the wild creatures we aim to attract and protect. And the best way to start native plants is with seeds collected within a 50-mile radius of your local environment.

Anyone under contract to collect native plant seed for TNC knows that the 50-mile radius rule is non-negotiable. Why does this matter? Because these plants have adapted to their specific conditions, including soil types and climate variables. A seed collected close to its intended new home is more likely to thrive than one collected from a different region. And when you are restoring habitat on a landscape scale, the more plants that survive to thrive, the greater the probability that your restoration project will succeed.

This article offers guidance adapted from TNC's online training on how to collect native seeds to plant in your new habitat garden. It explains the importance of knowing when during the year to collect seeds; the best ways to extract seeds based on their type and needs; and how to improve chances of success. When you immerse yourself in the practice of collecting native plant seed in your area you experience a renewed connection to nature as you observe and learn the life cycle of the plants you want to propagate.

Successful seed collection is a matter of timing. If done too early, the seed will be immature and not likely to germinate when planted. If embarked upon too late, the seed may be dried up, losing its ability to grow when needed. Also important is knowing what type of seed dispersal method your chosen plants use. The first four outlined below are the most time sensitive, followed by four seed dispersal methods that are categorized as “reliable,” meaning that they can generally be stored until you are ready to plant them. 

Time Sensitive Seed Dispersal Methods:

1) Seeds with elaiosomes: This is an amazing strategy some plants have developed to disperse their seeds. Elaiosomes are fleshy lipid structures that surround part of the seed. In general, the fats and proteins in the elaiosomes lure in ants, which carry the seeds to their nest to feed the fleshy nutrients to their larvae. After the larvae have consumed the elaiosome, the ants move the seeds to their waste disposal area (which is rich in nutrients from the ant frass and dead bodies) where the seeds then germinate.

Northern California plants that have seeds carrying elaiosomes include Shooting Star (Primula jeffreyi); Violet (Viola adunca); and Trillium (Trillium ovatum).

To time your collecting, track the seed maturation process by waiting for the seed pod to start splitting. Clip the splitting seedpod into a container. If you cannot plant it outside within a day or two of harvest, pot it in cool, moist soil, and store in a shady area. Once the seed has sprouted, you can transfer it to its place in your garden.

2) Ballistic seeds: Let the fun begin! These are the exploders, like California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), with seeds that go flying when the pod dries enough to split open. Watch for seed pods to form after the flower is spent, and a change in color from green to yellow or brown, indicating dryness. For poppies, your timing for collecting has some wiggle room: if the seed pod is not completely dry (vertical stripes along the pod will appear as it nears its time to disperse), you can store your collected pods in a paper bag. You'll hear them when they start to pop open.

In addition to the California poppy, other plants of this type in our region include wild cucumber (Marah macrocarpa) and Touch-Me-Not Impatiens (Impatiens occidentalis).

3) Puffy / fluffy seeds: The design of these seeds allows the wind to disperse them, a process called anemochory. Their hairy feathers or fluffy structures enable them to travel long distances. The plants you may know best that utilize this strategy are the many species of milkweed (Asclepias). Another is coyote brush, also known as or coyote bush, (Baccharis pilularis).

For collection purposes, wait until the seeds are visible within the fluffy material before gently separating it from the plant, or until the closed flower has formed a fluffy, feathery tip.

4) Plants that produce berries: These plants rely on wildlife to eat them, and then disperse their (undigestible) seeds through their feces; the creatures' stomach acid and the act of chewing prime the seeds for planting. Regional representatives of this seed category include gooseberry (Ribes californicum); Oregon grape (Berberis aquifolium); and California blackberry (Rubus ursinus).

You may have to compete with local birds and mammals to collect the delicious berries! (Note that the species name of the California blackberry is Latin for bear – this berry is one of its favorite foods.) Once you have picked your berries, leaving plenty behind for the wildlife, remove the flesh and plant right away. If necessary, store them in a cool, even cold, place until you are ready to sow them.

Reliable Seed Dispersal Methods:

1) Shakers and Beaks: Once mature, these seed pods can be shaken from the plant by either the wind or when a critter brushes up against them in passing. The seeds then fall out of the pod once it opens. Examples near us include Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis) and goldenrod (Solidago). Collect these once the pods are formed and starting to dry. You can store these in a cool dark place in a paper bag until planting time.

2) Coneheads: Think Echinacea purpurea, the beautiful purple coneflower, to visualize this type of seed structure. The flower has a cone-shaped center, in which the seeds are stored. Some coneheads are crumbly, making it easy to separate their seeds. Others are hardened and must be manipulated to extract the seeds. In addition to the coneflower, Rudbeckia and many species of sunflowers fall into this category.

3) Shattering: Separation of these seeds from their host plant is triggered by the lightest of touches. They also just drop off when they mature. Many species of grasses fall into this category. Our region is home to a number of beautiful grasses, including  purple three-awn (Aristida purpurea)blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis), California fescue (Festuca californica)giant wild rye (Leymus condensatus)California melic (Melica californica)deer grass (Muhlenbergia rigens), and purple needlegrass (Nassella pulchra).

As it can be difficult to determine the exact level of readiness of grass seeds, use a gentle touch test to see if they are ready to pluck.

4) Hitchhikers: You know these! Plants that produce seeds that stick to our clothing (and to the coats of animals) as we pass by were the inspiration for Velcro. It's debatable whether you want to plant any of these in your native garden, as many of them, especially burclover (Medicago polymorpha) and bedstraw (Galium aparine) are considered invasives.

Materials needed for harvesting seeds. The tools you'll want to have on hand include clean, sterilized pruners, and a bag or a bucket. Try to avoid anything plastic; paper is better for seed preservation, because it allows the seed to be exposed to air and dry naturally. Plastic, on the other hand, restricts airflow and retains moisture which may lead to the seed rotting. Smaller paper envelopes that make for nifty seed storage can be found online or in stationary stores. If using a grocery type paper bag, tape the seams so seeds can't work their way into them. Have on hand a pen and notebook to record the collection date and location, the name of the collected species, and a pair of gloves to avoid any contact with thorns or poison oak plants.

Ethical harvesting means you don't take too many seeds from one plant, or from too many plants in a small area. Collecting a few seeds from a number of plants also ensures biological diversity. A handy rule is: one-third for collection, one-third for wildlife, and one-third for plant regeneration. If collecting on private lands, be sure to get permission from the landowner or agency first.

Wherever and however you source your native plants, enjoy your new garden and the wildlife you are supporting!

UC Master Gardeners of Butte County are part of the University of California Cooperative Extension (UCCE) system.  To learn more about us and our upcoming events, and for help with gardening in our area visit our website.  If you have a gardening question or problem, email the Hotline at mgbutte@ucanr.edu or leave a phone message on our Hotline at 530-552-5812. To speak to a Master Gardener about a gardening issue, or to drop by the MG office during Hotline hours, see the most current information on our Ask Us section of our website.